Oxalic mixing ratios

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Joe T
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Oxalic mixing ratios

#1

Post by Joe T »

Could someone give me tips on mixing oxalic correctly? I have been using citric and decided to try oxalic. Thanks!


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#2

Post by Ross in Humboldt »

Joe:

I'd recommend looking under the "links" section at the "dump digging to get beer cans" website. There's a pretty good section on the use of oxalic acid, including the hazards to be aware of - fumes, etc. I've been using approximately 1 cup (8oz) of acid per gallon of hot tap water with pretty good results.

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#3

Post by Longopener »

Also see my Dingle Bay posting. Different types of rust, color and construction of cans dictates the ratio and temperature of water.
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#4

Post by txican »

I personally use 4oz to the gallon and use cold tap water with good results
seems to me the use of warm water speeds up the process but wears out the acid faster. also make sure you stir the acid with a wooden spoon or somthing until its all dissolved. I dont claim to be an expert though, just my opinion.
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#5

Post by Longopener »

Plus the heating of the water allows more acid to be desolved and thus is a stronger mix which indeed reacts with the rust faster. If you take the cans out and rinse and brush without disturbing the acid bath, the acid will last longer.
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#6

Post by txican »

hmm food for thought longopener, Im going to clean a batch of cans tommorrow ill try your method and see how it works.
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#7

Post by Mike S »

Andy,
I used about 2 cups of acid with about 5 gallons of water. Never measured the water but use those 7 gallon buckets(i think they are 7 gallons) I put enough water to cover 2 layers of cans standing on end. Use the hottest water you can get from you tap, mix in the acid then dunk the cans. If the cans arent that bad to begin with you can start checking them in as little as 15-20 minutes. Moderate cans maybe a hour or 2 and those real bad ones can go over night or even longer....oh and cover the bucket to keep the heat in.....disclaimer, use rubber gloves, a respirator and do this outside. Have fun!
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#8

Post by Rustmonger »

I use about the same mixture as Mike, around two cups for what is actually probably more like 3 gallons of water. I put a couple of scoops of acid into a dry bucket and add hot tap water, hold my breath and stir. I only put a gallon or two of water in to start. I then start adding my cans filling each one with hot tap water first, this keeps the acid from eating the inside of the cans and also conserves acid. You don't use as much and it last longer. Once I get two layers of cans (standing up) in the bucket I fill it the rest of the way with hot water until it jus covers the cans and then cover it up to retain the heat. I also pre clean the cans well before I even soak them, gives the acid less to work on, soaking cans full of mud and pine needles just wastes acid. I also pull them out a few times while they soak to brush off any rust (I use a toothbrush) making sure none if it drips in the bucket. Once they're brushed I rinse 'em under hot water and put them back in the acid. Once they're done soaking I rinse and brush 'em under COLD tap water to neutralize the acid, if you rinse 'em good enough it seems to work well.

Little advice, never soak partially faded cans in hot acid. The heat will just bleach the rest of the color off. If possible I like to soak faded cans together in cold acid but, if I only have a couple to do, I'll fill those with cold water before putting them in my regular hot acid bath with the rest of the cans. Been working so far.

Also, be careful with the oxalic. That stuff is brutal when you first mix it. If you breath it in when it's fresh you can feel it just burning everything inside you, that can't be a good thing. Wear gloves too, it'll certainly let you know if you have any cuts on your hands. Good luck. :smile:
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#9

Post by Mike S »

Good point on the pre cleaning, forgot to mention that is it probably one of the most important thing to do. 2 things that i do different is i dont fill the cans with reg water first, maybe i should try it and the other is i put the water in the bucket before the acid. It might create less fumes initially my way but either way your going to get them right int he face when mixing.
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#10

Post by Bryan2 »

From a chemists point of view, I seem to remember that its ALWAYS acid into water and NOT water into acid. With certain acids, adding water can cause a volatile reaction. One of those chemistry deals that we all forgot from school.
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#11

Post by Rustmonger »

Good tip Bryan, I'll do that from now on. Thanks.
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Re: Oxalic mixing ratios

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Post by Longopener »

if
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Re: Oxalic mixing ratios

#13

Post by Ctbott1 »

When we were cleaning all of the cans we found that one level cup of oxalic in a 5 gallon bucket of luke warm water was the best ratio for us.
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Re: Oxalic mixing ratios

#14

Post by jacoby4664 »

Ctbott1 wrote: Sun Sep 20, 2020 7:49 am When we were cleaning all of the cans we found that one level cup of oxalic in a 5 gallon bucket of luke warm water was the best ratio for us.
How long do you soak a can with just a few small Surface spots of rust. Same question a can with a lot of rust over whole can?
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Re: Oxalic mixing ratios

#15

Post by Ctbott1 »

So we were soaking cans that were total rust or tons of rust for 4 hours but I know some of the folks that have the cans now soaked them again.

I was never lucky enough to find a can with only a few spots but I still wouldn’t hesitate to use the same mix and just check them.

We were pulling every can, every hour and using a toothbrush to clean them. I don’t think 4 hours is enough time to do any damage to any can - but I’m not an expert
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Re: Oxalic mixing ratios

#16

Post by Gravldo »

Is the one cup of oxalic per five gallon ratio recommended for heavily rusted crowntainers or do they need a different ratio or acid like citric?
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