Can repair from the inside out

Instructions and methods of Can Repair

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Scott Rollert
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Can repair from the inside out

#1

Post by Scott Rollert »

The basic tools used: Bench grinder, Dremel, reverse opening pliers, small ball peen hammer, and straightening pipe.
The basic tools used: Bench grinder, Dremel, reverse opening pliers, small ball peen hammer, and straightening pipe.
This is a website version of the article that was in the Rustlings. This is the method I use for straightening cans with dents. The first step is determining which end of the can will be removed. I remove the lid closest to where the dent(s) are on the can. I then grind the top side of the rim with either a bench grinder or a Dremel. As you grind, look for a line coming through where you're grinding. Once the line goes all around the lid, it's ready for removal. Before removing the lid, mark the lid and can so they can be realigned when the straightening is finished. Be sure to wear gloves when removing the lid, as there are some very sharp edges. On cans with severe dents, I use the reverse opening pliers to open up the can enough to go on to the pipe. Step 2 is removing the dents. Start with the seam (if the pipe has a groove for the seam) and start working the dents out with either a hammer or rolling pin. Be sure to cover the can with a piece of cloth or clear plastic to protect the can. When all the dents are satisfactorily removed, realign the lid and tap it back into the can.
Old brake spring pliers are used for removing a lid with opening holes. Hook under the opening and pull out the lid.
Old brake spring pliers are used for removing a lid with opening holes. Hook under the opening and pull out the lid.
For lids with no opening holes, a long screwdriver will push it out from the opened end of the can.
For lids with no opening holes, a long screwdriver will push it out from the opened end of the can.
Here are pics of a can that has gone through this straightening process.
Before...
Before...
After straightening.
After straightening.
Attachments
Details on the pipe. It's a piece of plumbing pipe 15 in. long, 2 3/8 in. wide with 1/8 in. wall thickness. Also note the groove for seam allowance. The groove is 1/8 in. wide, 1/16 in deep and 7 in. long. This will cover 8, 12, and 16 oz. flats & cones.
Details on the pipe. It's a piece of plumbing pipe 15 in. long, 2 3/8 in. wide with 1/8 in. wall thickness. Also note the groove for seam allowance. The groove is 1/8 in. wide, 1/16 in deep and 7 in. long. This will cover 8, 12, and 16 oz. flats & cones.
The line that forms around the lid as it's being ground.
The line that forms around the lid as it's being ground.


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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#2

Post by Beamer »

Scott and others,
I really appreciate you guys for illustrating how you are able to make a junk can into a very displayable can. I cannot wait to get a Dremel or a similar product so I can try to do the same. I may be biased, but there cannot be a better beer can website on the net. Or a better bunch of members. :smt023
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#3

Post by Rockbob »

I'll drink to that!! :smt030
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#4

Post by Scott Rollert »

Can Repair from the Inside Out...the Rustlings version
By Scott Rollert RB #126

On the Rusty Bunch web site are some topics about various ways of repairing beer cans. I’d like to share my method for straightening cans. I prefer a method that allows you to work out dents from the inside of the can. I’d like to thank John Smoller for the can used in the pictures, and he gets a nice straight Aristocrat for his shelf.

The tools I use are pretty basic. As seen in the picture, a bench grinder, Dremel, reverse opening pliers, small ball peen hammer, bench vise, and the “pipe”.

Step one is removing the lid. Depending on the location of the dent, I remove one (or sometimes both) lid. In this case I chose the top lid. Using the bench grinder or Dremel, grind along the top edge until you see a line start appearing in the middle of where you’re grinding. Once the line appears all around the lid, I put a notch in the lid & rim for realigning them after the work is done. Since I had opening holes on the top lid, an old pair of brake spring pliers was used to hook under the lid & pull it off. If you grind the other end, use a long screwdriver and push upward, popping the lid off. Then push the opening holes back out so as not to get in the way when sliding the can on to the pipe. Removing the lid this way leaves the inside of the can smooth, and ready to put the lid back on when done. A final note here, use gloves pulling off the lid. Sharp edges will cut your hands like a razor blade.

Step two is removing the dents. I used the reverse opening pliers to open up the inside of the can until it was big enough to get over the pipe. The pipe is a piece of plumbing pipe, 2 3/8 in. in diameter with a 1/8 in. wall thickness. It’s 15 in. long, enough to do 12 oz. flats & cones as well as 16 oz. cans. I also had a groove ground into the pipe to allow for the seam of the can. The groove is 1/8 in. wide by 1/16 in. deep and 7 in. long. This can be done at a machine shop. Once the can is over the pipe, the dents can be removed. I use strips of clear plastic from packaging material to lay over the can while hammering out the dents. I start by lining up the seam on the groove and straightening it out. Then start working towards the center of the can. Sometimes if the dents aren’t too big, a rolling pin works well to smooth them out. Once the dents are smoothed out, you can place tape on the inside for any holes that need to be filled.

Step three is putting the lid back on. I align the notch and tap the lid around until it’s back to the top of the rim. This is also where you can put a better lid on if you want to replace it. When I find cans with good lids, I bring them back for just this purpose.

The last thing I will mention is to practice. Start on a loser can to see what is involved before you attack the instructional you just found. While there are other ways to remove minor dents, this will work on those big ones.
The basic tools. Bench grinder, Dremel, reverse opening pliers, small ball peen hammer, and straightening pipe.
The basic tools. Bench grinder, Dremel, reverse opening pliers, small ball peen hammer, and straightening pipe.
The line that forms when grinding down the rim.
The line that forms when grinding down the rim.
An old pair of brake spring pliers for removing a lid with opening holes. Hook an end through a hole and pull out.
An old pair of brake spring pliers for removing a lid with opening holes. Hook an end through a hole and pull out.
[/attachment]
A long screwdriver works for pushing out a lid without opening holes.
A long screwdriver works for pushing out a lid without opening holes.
The can before straightening...
The can before straightening...
...and after straightening.
...and after straightening.
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The can opened up enough to be slid on to the pipe. See the text for dimensions for the pipe.
The can opened up enough to be slid on to the pipe. See the text for dimensions for the pipe.
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#5

Post by Beamer »

Scott,
Here is my first attempt. Not a super huge dent, but the can sure looks better. Lots easier than I would have ever imagined. Need to get a bigger pipe though. Thanks for the guidance.
:smt023
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Before
Before
After
After
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#6

Post by Scott Rollert »

I'd say you're off to a great start Mike, the can will display nicely now. Pipe diameter is is important. I actually use 2, the last one is just fractionally smaller than the true diameter of a 12 oz. can. Once you get the can on to that one, it'll come out like there was never a dent in the can. The more you work on cans, the more you discover how they can be restored. You need to get the Dremel next and work those rims into shape.

There are more articles to come on can repair/restoration, so stay tuned!
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#7

Post by Beamer »

Thanks Scott,
I repaired a pretty bent Straight 8 last night. Also patched a hole about the size of a dime using your method. Came out great. I showed it to my son before I started and when I was done he didn't believe it was the same can. :smile: He asked me if I could try to fix his Dad's Root Beer flat and I told him no, but WE can. This weekend I will let him help in the process, should be a good experience for him. Thanks again, Mike

:smt023
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#8

Post by Mike Wilbur »

How about doing a "class" on this at a big show? Has it been done before? It would be great to see you do it in person. Come to Vegas! -Mike
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#9

Post by Scott Rollert »

If I do make it out to Vegas, I don't want to lug a bunch of tools along. That's why I've been putting up posts with a lot of pics to detail the process. Maybe someone closer to Vegas that's driving could bring their stuff for can repairs with them.

If you have questions, Mike, feel free to PM me. There is an upcoming article on rim cleaning.
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#10

Post by Green Dragon »

Just got into cans less than a month ago after being a bottle collector for years.

I'm still lost as to how you get the lid off without messing it up or having it look terrible once done. getting the dents out seems like the easy part if you had the ends off for access.

ALso, looked all over here and online and have yet to see any great info on dedenting without disassembly... hope this is a good place to post this, looking forward to a long journey with you guys ( any dumpers in upstate NY near Binghamton ? )

~ AL
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#11

Post by Beamer »

Green Dragon wrote:Just got into cans less than a month ago after being a bottle collector for years.

I'm still lost as to how you get the lid off without messing it up or having it look terrible once done. getting the dents out seems like the easy part if you had the ends off for access.

ALso, looked all over here and online and have yet to see any great info on dedenting without disassembly... hope this is a good place to post this, looking forward to a long journey with you guys ( any dumpers in upstate NY near Binghamton ? )

~ AL
Al, read this post. I can personally vouch for the bender.

viewtopic.php?f=111&t=24782&hilit=bender
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#12

Post by Scott Rollert »

The "Bender" method works very well on cans that are solid with light to moderate dents. The method I use is the lid removal method, mostly because I've been doing it so long. As to the condition of the lid when you get it off, you can see in the one pic it's in great condition. If for some reason it gets mangled, you can always grind a lid off another can & use it for a donor lid. One big advantage with removing a lid is you can straighten cans with severe dents. I refer to those as tacos (bent in half) and pancakes (flattened).
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Re: Can repair from the inside out

#13

Post by txspecial »

---.
It all depends on whether you're buying or selling.
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