Wax Education Needed

[Wheaton]

I'm a proponent of WD40 for preserving cans (a topic that's enjoyed its share of air and debate on this forum), but today I'd like to know more about waxing.

I have never religiously used wax on indoor cans. The one time I tried was almost by accident - I had some Turtle Wax in the garage, and decided on a whim to see if it improved the appearance of indoor flats and cones. They came out looking and feeling nice: win. And then I put it away and never used it again.

I've knocked the dust off some old threads, perusing different folks' waxing formulae, and opinions are predictably varied. So consider this thread a standing invitation to post your personal wax preferences and pictures of the results. I'm interested in products by brand name. Could somebody with experience also opine on the use of Flitz for pre-cleaning cans? Its value for cleaning signs is well documented, but I'm only finding tangential references to its use on cans.

And I thank you for your support.

[Bob L]

Dave,
Maybe you should try the Brazilian wax treatment!

[Flat_Top]

Living in Florida a low humidity is 60%. I have used Meguiar's cleaner wax on my cans for 20+ years. Never had an issue with one of them developing any yellowing, humidity spots, or rust. Below is a post I put up in a previous thread.



I started waxing my cans after noticing how nice and shinny and clean feeling the big dealers cans are. And what a difference it has made in their appearance. I also use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle. It really cleans them up and the wax is easy to apply and remove. You will not believe the dirt that you will get off a can that you thought was clean.

I don't wax any cans with rust, but do wax cans with minor humidity spotting and it seems to keep it in check.

Here is my process. Get a roll of very soft paper towels. Don't use the cheap stuff as it is very rough and may scratch the cans.

1) Remove any excess dirt or dust with a damp paper towel and wipe dry
2) Using a clean paper towel, fold it in half several times and apply a liberal amount of wax starting at the seam moving around the can. This will remove the dirt you can feel, but not see.
3) Using another clean paper towel apply a second coat of wax. You can do the seam and lids if you like. I always do the seams last because the bare metal sometimes turns the wax black.
4) Let the wax rest for about a minute then using another clean paper towel buff to a shine. I lay the can flat on a table and start at one seam and use fast strokes to buff the can out.
5) Next I buff the lids and seam.
6) Lastly I use a very soft bristle toothbrush to remove any extra wax around the rims on in the seam. You can use a wood toothpick to remove any tough white buildup from inside the seam or around the lids.

I've never had an issue with paint loss and am always happy with the nice clean and shinny can. Try is on some of those 1970s cans and see what a difference it makes.

[Daev Larrazolo]

Bob L that's funny. I also use Mcguires. I put it on with a regular cloth let it dry then take it off with a different cloth and shine it with the buffing cloth

[Barry Travis]

Dave-As one of the online "preachers" of the wonderous Flitz, my use of it on cans is a judgement call made by experience. On a can that is sturdy and solid that needs a shinin' up, I use it happily. Like the recent cans John Kotteman and I got at Guzzle, they were no-brainers, and it worked wonderfully. But on a crowntainer? Never. It has abrasive qualities that become evident should you overdo it. Try it on some 70's pulltabs first to get the hang of it.

I have a bag of sweat socks that I've worn holes in the toes that I use for Flitzing.


As with anything-your mileage may vary.

[ronsmall]

Go easy on the lids. It's easy to put circular scratches in the lids by overzealous cleaning. The safest way to do the lids without scratching them is to use your bare finger to rub in the Maguiar's or whatever. You see an awful lot of cans whose lids have been scratched up by well-meaning collectors.

[BostonBob]

I just started waxing my cans with Eagle One 'Wax as U Dry' spray. I give it a good spray and then buff the can with a soft towel (100% cotton is best). It results in a cleaner can with great shine. This spray does not leave any white residue either. Takes about 30 seconds per can. Makes a big difference to me. :)

I should also add, if the can is dirty or has heavy dust visible, I pre-clean it with a wet paper towel and possibly Windex.

[dumper5]

Doesn't Waxing Pull The Hairs!!

[Canadacan]

You need Spishak Spishwax Car Wax...rememer it's just wax!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_lmXK2di9g" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[cans65]

My winter project is to put a good coat of wax on my cans, but I have often wondered about metallic or gold finish on some of the cans. No problem putting a good coat of wax on those also, or would the process be slightly different?

[Daev Larrazolo]

I use it on all cans with no problem

[Flat_Top]

My winter project is to put a good coat of wax on my cans, but I have often wondered about metallic or gold finish on some of the cans. No problem putting a good coat of wax on those also, or would the process be slightly different?

I wax all my cans the same way. No problems. But saying that is you any color on the rag/towel, STOP. Here are some of my metallic cans.

[Wheaton]

I'm hoping that once I figure out a repeatable technique, all of my cans will turn into HP Haas cones just like that one. That's a sick can, man.

Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is one of those brand names that has popped up for years, though I understand it has some polishing agent in it. Ron warns against overpolishing lids and creating scratches. Hmm...so nobody's had issues with scratched up paint using that stuff?

[Canadacan]

I'm hoping that once I figure out a repeatable technique, all of my cans will turn into HP Haas cones just like that one. That's a sick can, man.

Meguiar's Cleaner Wax is one of those brand names that has popped up for years, though I understand it has some polishing agent in it. Ron warns against overpolishing lids and creating scratches. Hmm...so nobody's had issues with scratched up paint using that stuff?

Be extreamly!!! carfull with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax!...it has cutting compounds in it. I use just the Meguiar's top coat wax with good results. I've had blue come on to a rag with cut compound (Meguiar's)...on a low value Pepsi can...glued seam type. If there is any rust particles you may scratch it yes.

[Flat_Top]

Maybe I've been lucky, but I've had excellent results with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Remember it is made for automotive paint. I do check my towel while I'm first wiping it on and can remember maybe 1 can that I had some color come off.

[Beamer]

Maybe I've been lucky, but I've had excellent results with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax. Remember it is made for automotive paint. I do check my towel while I'm first wiping it on and can remember maybe 1 can that I had some color come off.

Never have had an issue with Meguiar's Cleaner Wax.

[Bryan2]

Guys, DON'T use compounds on nice cans. Yes, it will scratch and take paint off. Meguiars Cleaner Wax or #50 does have cleaners in it, but they are chemical and not gritty, so it should be fine on cans. If you use only high quality polish or pure wax, you won't be removing any paint from good condition cans. Depending on condition, if some cans are already oxidizing, no matter what you use, paint will come off. Like trying to wax a car with chalky paint....you'll have color come off in your rag. Proceed with caution.