Wax

Instuctions and Methods of Can Cleaning

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Mark (expired)
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Wax

#1

Post by Mark (expired) »

I have never applied wax to a beer can. An definite adavantage of having a collection up here at a mile hi with its usually low humidity. So I haven't thought of doing it to protect them. At Canvention, a well respected expert on cans thought that waxing one of the cans I had would improve it. I have a few cans that look like they were shillacked ... wish they hadn't been, but they are tolerable on the shelves. So...

1.) Which wax is recommended? And maybe just as important, which ones should be avoided?
2.) Is there much of a consenus on if waxing adds/detracts/ or doesn't affect value? I understand a badly done waxing would detract, just wondering if a well applied waxing would be considered a plus?

I didn't see this topic covered in the reference section of the site, but maybe someone could help me find a good resource. Certainly don't want to ruin a can.

Thanks for any help...

Cheers!


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Re: Wax

#2

Post by jwcans »

I am a definite advocate for wax. Anything to help protect a can has to be a good thing. The wax provides a fine film of protection. There are several good choices. I know some are advocats of an all natural bees wax product. I personally use Meguires Mirror Glaze. This is a Cleaner wax. " Cleans, polishes, and protects in one easy step " This is a wax that's safe for clear coats, which means it has virtually no abrasives in it. I have been using it for years and live in a high humidity area. I have been very pleased with the results. Given up can wraps, except for transporting cans.
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Re: Wax

#3

Post by John S. »

Although I have never, ever waxed a can....any one who has seen my collection knows there are no waxing candidates....I have used MEGUIAR'S in a burgundy container (label states "America's #1 selling Cleaner Wax) on a bunch of breweriana and have been complete satisfied with the results. I don't think this is the exact same product described in jwcans post.
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Re: Wax

#4

Post by Rustmonger »

I've been waxing my cans with whatever I had laying around (Rain Dance until that was gone and now I have regular Turtle Wax) for close to 20 years and have been very pleased with the results. I've never had a problem with the wax yellowing and am a big fan of waxing almost anything that will take a coat of wax from cans to signs to my bar top to whatever.... The trick I've found is to do a light coat and remove it before it completely dries. Try to get as much of as you can because cans always look tacky when there's gobs of wax left in the seams and rim areas. I buff 'em with the rattiest, softest, most falling apart old rag I can find and they come out shiny and real smooth to the touch. You'd be surprised how much gunk will come off even a very nice can. I think you can bring most cans up by a half a grade and some by as much as a full grade with nothing more than a little wax. Only problem is trying to wax dumpers, remember wax only improves smooth paint and is a nightmare on rust. I do wax dumpers but never heavily rusted cans and go with a coat and almost total removal of the wax when I wipe it off. Works wonders.
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Re: Wax

#5

Post by cg »

And, assuming the lids and seams are clean, don't forget to wax those, too. Rust comes first to the non-painted surfaces and then has a penchant for migrating. ;)

cg
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Re: Wax

#6

Post by Flat_Top »

I started waxing my cans after noticing how nice and shinny and clean feeling the big dealers cans are. And what a difference it has made in their appearance. I also use Mequiar's Cleaner Wax in the maroon bottle. It really cleans them up and the wax is easy to apply and remove. You will not believe the dirt that you will get off a can that you thought was clean.

I don't wax any cans with rust, but do wax cans with minor humidity spotting and it seems to keep it in check.

Here is my process.

1) Wipe down the can with a damp paper towel and wipe dry
2) Using a clean paper towel, fold it in half several times and apply a liberal amount of wax starting at the seam moving around the can. This will remove the dirt you can feel, but not see.
3) Using another clean paper towel apply a second coat of wax. You should do the seam and lids. I always do the seams last because the bare metal sometimes turns the wax black.
4) Let the wax rest for about a minute then using another clean paper towel buff to a shine. I lay the can flat on a table and start at one seam and use fast strokes to buff the can out.
5) Next I buff the lids and then using my fingernail run the paper towel around the lids and can label to remove any extra wax build up.
6) Next I buff the seam
7) Lastly I use a wood toothpick to clean any extra wax from inside the seam or around the lids.

I've never had an issue with paint loss and am always happy with the nice clean and shinny can.
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Re: Wax

#7

Post by Kotto »

Any suggestions for removing wax from a bumpy dumper? It's a Marlin Green Hornet that somebody waxed years ago. I think that if I can remove the white wax residue from between the bumpy stuff so that the green background is more visble that it might actually look OK.
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Re: Wax

#8

Post by Mark (expired) »

As is always the case, excellent advice to be found here. I will try a couple and rtry to post before and after picts.

Cheers,
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Re: Wax

#9

Post by Small Can Glory »

Just in case you'd like to try removing the shellac...

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9244
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Re: Wax

#10

Post by jomama »

WARNING!!! Be careful with waxing cans with thin metallic finishes. Kamms J-spout comes to mind. Also stay away from the caps! - I just waxed the paint off my Blatz ale crown lid yesterday. I believe that if the can is left full of beer for an extended period of time, the finish becomes weaker on both the can + the cap (it will flake!).





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