Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
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Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I have to credit Scott Rollert, Dave Babel and Mike Schnare for giving me the confidence and incentive to fix this can.Here is a can that got thrown in with a deal I made awhile ago. It was actually crushed or folded in half. I pulled it back out by gripping both ends of the can. I put some protective tape over a large phillips head screwdriver, secured it in my vise and carefully punched the bottom out. It didn't work the first time, so I had to grind a little more. The tape was to protect the can as I was grinding. It probably wasn't necessary. I used a sharpie to make some marks on the can so I got the lid back on after the straightening.
The process has begun. I put some protective tape on the end of my mallet to protect the can. I like Leon's idea of putting a can wrap on the can, while tapping on it, but I didn't have one here at work.
Tapping the lid back on. Notice that my marks are lined up. The lid simply wedges back on in place. It is possible to punch the lid down into the can. Be sure to tap on the lid AND the rim at the same time. I may hand file the assembly to even out the bottom.
As you can see, the seam area still has some crinkles that I couldn't get out.
I'm pretty happy with the improvements. It may have been a little inimidating working on a shiny can, but it was enjoyable as well.
The can looked to have some light humidity problems or maybe just waterspotting. I used the products pictured and I made the copper really pop! The face cleaned up as well, if you compare the first pic to the later images.
Start to finish, I had probably 30 minutes of work. Let me stress that this was the first time I've tried anything like this. I encourage everyone to give it a try.
The process has begun. I put some protective tape on the end of my mallet to protect the can. I like Leon's idea of putting a can wrap on the can, while tapping on it, but I didn't have one here at work.
Tapping the lid back on. Notice that my marks are lined up. The lid simply wedges back on in place. It is possible to punch the lid down into the can. Be sure to tap on the lid AND the rim at the same time. I may hand file the assembly to even out the bottom.
As you can see, the seam area still has some crinkles that I couldn't get out.
I'm pretty happy with the improvements. It may have been a little inimidating working on a shiny can, but it was enjoyable as well.
The can looked to have some light humidity problems or maybe just waterspotting. I used the products pictured and I made the copper really pop! The face cleaned up as well, if you compare the first pic to the later images.
Start to finish, I had probably 30 minutes of work. Let me stress that this was the first time I've tried anything like this. I encourage everyone to give it a try.
Currently in a collecting funk. Waiting for the bug to bite again to get back into collecting some type of cans, on a small, affordable level.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
ok since i was taught (sp).? by the best, and spent a couple days at his house watcing him(Can Dr.), and getting great lessons as well. what you would use to get them creases out with is a wooden rolling pin !!! while on the the metal sleave. ingeanous i must say.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
wow bryan that looks great good job on your first
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Very nice! Great pics to go along with the story!
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
What's nice about this method is you can pop that bottom lid off and continue the repair. I'd be tempted to try the rolling pin. It's just a matter of how much pounding these cans will take. I bet its possible that this metal is stretched and never will be smooth again. A bigger mallet would help too.RustyGoats wrote:ok since i was taught (sp).? by the best, and spent a couple days at his house watcing him(Can Dr.), and getting great lessons as well. what you would use to get them creases out with is a wooden rolling pin !!! while on the the metal sleave. ingeanous i must say.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Cripe, that copper sparkles the walls of the Taj Mahal. What, exactly, was your procedure for getting that humidity and gunk off? I wax or oil indoor cans, depending on how much humidity graying is present, but whatever you did to that can is amazing. So far I've been scared to try polishing compounds on cleaner cans...
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Looks good for first try. Tapeing a can will likely result in paint loss due to poor adhesion I've found out. Better to use the can wrap with no worry of tape removing paint. If you must use tape they make a special low adhesive tape that glass guys use after installing Windsheilds ect. If you dont happen to have a roll of that special tape in your pocket then rub the tape on your paint leg a few times to weaken the adhesive capabilities. I've tried the rolling pin but found the heavy the wood the better, like what they used in the old days. I was eyeballing my moms 40 year old rolling pin while down south on Vacation, I need that one, These new rolling pins made of light weight Balsa wood very inadequate for any purpose. LEON.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I have heard and seen an inprovised rolling pin for smoothing cans. Not the classic moms cookie dough rolling pin, but rather it was a stainless steel rolling cylinder. I also know of one that is pweter for a softer metal. The can wrap is an absolute must!
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I've had good luck just using another section of pipe as a rolling pin. I only use the hammer to get out the big dents, while working the can onto the stationary pipe. Gotta cover the can surface while rolling though to still avoid scratches. Rolling really works out those final wrinkles and leaves a nice smooth surface usually.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Great job. It will probably get easier and you'll get more skilled with every attempt.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Thats a pretty good first attempt. also nice photography, especially the pic of the "line" on the rim..its hard to explain that if youve never done it. Like paul said the rolling pin should take most of that creasing out.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Good job Bryan. It gives me confidence to try the same repair. Just need to save up for a bench grinder. I went to a lot of auctions last year that bench grinders went fairly cheap. I thought, what the heck do I need one for? Now I know. Thanks for the pictures.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Bryan, you did a great job on your first attempt. The creases can removed by the methods mentioned earlier in the thread, but the pipe diameter is also key here. I'd suggest now that the can is pretty much straight, try to get a pipe that is as close to the true diameter of the can as you can get. Another consideration is the the seam. If you can get the groove machined into the pipe, those creases will disappear. You can see the seam construction when the lid is off. Without compensating for it's thickness, you'll end up with a ridge from the seam.
As for those creases, if rolling doesn't work, then a ball peen hammer will do it. The round end tapping directly on the crease will flatten it out. Be sure to cover the can with a piece of plastic, and TAP, don't go wailing on it. Once the crease is flattened out, then use the flat end to reshape the can body.
My first bench grinder I got from a pawn shop for $10. It eventually froze up, and now I'm using a Craftsman that's pretty nice.
Your formula for the metallic gold looks like it works really well. The color is astounding after your "treatment"!
As for those creases, if rolling doesn't work, then a ball peen hammer will do it. The round end tapping directly on the crease will flatten it out. Be sure to cover the can with a piece of plastic, and TAP, don't go wailing on it. Once the crease is flattened out, then use the flat end to reshape the can body.
My first bench grinder I got from a pawn shop for $10. It eventually froze up, and now I'm using a Craftsman that's pretty nice.
Your formula for the metallic gold looks like it works really well. The color is astounding after your "treatment"!
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I now understand the part about machining a groove for the seam of the can. I can't emphasize enough that you should really try this procedure so you can appreciate the simplicity and techniques.
As for the can finish, nothing magical here. The can was nice to begin with. I can't believe someone bent it in half and it basically stayed in grade 1 condition all these years. But a light rubbing with the compound and final finish with the Mequiars 50 made the can sparkle. I will be trying this with the rest of my copper and gold cans. Some of them really need it.
As for the can finish, nothing magical here. The can was nice to begin with. I can't believe someone bent it in half and it basically stayed in grade 1 condition all these years. But a light rubbing with the compound and final finish with the Mequiars 50 made the can sparkle. I will be trying this with the rest of my copper and gold cans. Some of them really need it.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Bryan,
Where do you purchase the 2 products that you use to make the cans shine?
Where do you purchase the 2 products that you use to make the cans shine?
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Mike, I'm not sure brands really matter here, although 3M and Meguiars are what I use primarily here at the marina. The 3M product is a compound, which means it has a little grit in it, making it a pretty aggressive cleaner. The Meguiars 50 has a non-gritty cleaning agent, as well as wax, making it what they call a one step. I would think a product like this would be ideal for cans that are already pretty nice. You would want to try the compound on cans that have some stains or humidity. You can find Meguiars at any auto store chain. For aggressive compounds, you may have to go to an automotive painter's supply store. You can also find these products at Boat US and West Marine Stores. Also, Starbrite Hull Cleaner is nothing more than liquid oxalic acid, which you can find at marine stores.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Shouldve just put a firecracker in it.
Lets go dumping,
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Or filled it with water and set it outside for a week......
I know the guys who do this for a living can get a lot of those creases out. I've seen cans that were completely flattened get re-rounded to the point where it is hard to tell at all that there was a problem. I'm surprised more paint doesn't flake off in the process-- must be well adhered.
I know the guys who do this for a living can get a lot of those creases out. I've seen cans that were completely flattened get re-rounded to the point where it is hard to tell at all that there was a problem. I'm surprised more paint doesn't flake off in the process-- must be well adhered.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Told ya' it was easy! OK, so it's not perfect but, hey, it's a lot better than it was before. I've yet to achieve "perfection" either but, when a can's bent in half like that, it's no good anyway so it can only get better. Nice job Bryan, glad to see you gave it a shot.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Again, it's not a method used by "pros" that may do repair for a living. But it's also not a "cob job". With the right tools and practice, our off grade soldiers can again stand tall on a shelf.
And Dave, when you're feeling like you have a handle on it, I'll send you a Beckers OI to see what "heavy metal" is like!
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Agree that using a rolling pin is the best way to smooth out dents. If possible, use a solid stainless steel one as it will have more weight and will have a smoother surface. I agree that a can wrap should be used when removing the dents and during most of the process in smoothing the dents out. If you are using a stainless steel rolling pin the final smoothing should be done without a can wrap for maximum smoothness. Be careful that the rolling pin is free from any debris otherwise you will damage the paint. Unless you know someone at a machine shop it will be difficult to come across a stainless steel rolling pin. You can use a stainless steel seamer used for roofing. This is like a mini rolling pin that has a handle and can be used with one hand. It is a nice alternative.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I decided to try my had at de-denting yesterday. I pulled this Drewrys can out of the Rusty Bunch dump a couple of years ago with this in mind. Here are the results.
Before
After
I need to find a better pipe to use (only had PVC on hand) and get a bench vise and I think I can get even better results.
Before
After
I need to find a better pipe to use (only had PVC on hand) and get a bench vise and I think I can get even better results.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Nice job and good can to practice on. Did you use a bench grinder? I may have gotten a little too aggressive with the bench grinder. I wonder if a dremmel would work better for me?
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Bryan,
What is a dremmel? Please don't laugh guys.
What is a dremmel? Please don't laugh guys.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
A Dremmel Tool kit is a great little hand held tool that turns really high RPM's. It comes with all kinds of cool attachments that you can grind, drill, cut and buff with. Now, I think you can get cordless versions as well. Extremely handy for hobbies, home improvement and just because!
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Bryan Shrock
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
I think I will search ebay and see what turns up. Thanks Bryan.
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Kevin if you dont want to spring for a bench vise you can bolt the pipe to your bench with some exaust pipe clamps.Kevin the Rusty Editor wrote:
I need to find a better pipe to use (only had PVC on hand) and get a bench vise and I think I can get even better results.
Beamer if you go the route of getting a dremel get a variable speed one. The standard ones have only one speed and its like 28,000 rpms and will eat up bits fast!
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Re: Here is my first attempt at De-Denting a can !
Beamer wrote:Bryan,
What is a dremmel? Please don't laugh guys.
Here's a good page for info, but like you said, one from eBay will be fine!
http://www.dremel.com/en-US