Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
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- Down in the Dumps
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Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
What is the method of choice for sealing a can after the rust has been removed to keep it from rust from returning?
- Daev Larrazolo
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Re: Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
Don't put anything on it just stick it on the shelf.
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- Flat_Top
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Re: Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
Don't get it wet. Rust shouldn't return.
Chuck
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Re: Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
I'm serous. I live in Florida and we have very high humidity. I have cans with rust on them that haven't changed in 20 years.
Chuck
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Re: Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
That is good to know .. and as I say that makes it easy. I am use to dealing with Civil War relics, like ration cans, etc. that will continue to rust away unless you stop the rusting process and seal them real well. For example, here is the bowl of a dipping ladle that I just finished preserving, which is sealed with a coat of satin polyurethane. If I didn't seal it, I can almost guarantee that it would be a pile of rust crumbles in a year or two.Flat_Top wrote:I'm serous. I live in Florida and we have very high humidity. I have cans with rust on them that haven't changed in 20 years.
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Re: Sealing a can after ceaning & rust removal
During the oxalic soak of a can, I often remove the can and lightly scrub it down with medium bristle tooth brush.
Often I'll insert the brush into the containers I use, and scrub a layer of rust I'm attempting to cut thru and give it a light scrub while in solution.
Helps cut thru the rust spot faster, exposing more fresh rust to solution, and minimizing time spend in solution.
After cleaning cans in oxalic, esp. heavily rusted dumpers, one should ALWAYS neutralize the acid, by soaking the can in some room temperature baking soda / water solution for up to 10 min. after the final oxalic soak. This neutralizes the soaked-in acid, which does permeate any remaining rust, and stays there.
So you need to NEUTRALIZE it, because heavily rusted objects which have been cleaned in oxalic, will continue to dissolve even when dry. That acidity soaks into the remaining rust, and just keeps eating away at the bonds of the metal / ferrous oxide, while the can is on the shelf.
Always NEUTRALIZE the cans after soaking, using baking soda solution.
Everyone forgets that last step.
Often I'll insert the brush into the containers I use, and scrub a layer of rust I'm attempting to cut thru and give it a light scrub while in solution.
Helps cut thru the rust spot faster, exposing more fresh rust to solution, and minimizing time spend in solution.
After cleaning cans in oxalic, esp. heavily rusted dumpers, one should ALWAYS neutralize the acid, by soaking the can in some room temperature baking soda / water solution for up to 10 min. after the final oxalic soak. This neutralizes the soaked-in acid, which does permeate any remaining rust, and stays there.
So you need to NEUTRALIZE it, because heavily rusted objects which have been cleaned in oxalic, will continue to dissolve even when dry. That acidity soaks into the remaining rust, and just keeps eating away at the bonds of the metal / ferrous oxide, while the can is on the shelf.
Always NEUTRALIZE the cans after soaking, using baking soda solution.
Everyone forgets that last step.