So the book clearly identifies zip top cans. But apparently not fan tabs? Nor U tabs for that matter. Unless I'm really missing something.
I sometimes come across cans that I'd like to cross check to be sure the can in question was actually produced with a given lid.
Is there a more complete online source available?
Thanks,
Fan Tabs - USBC Vol. II
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- OhioCanGuy
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Fan Tabs - USBC Vol. II
Bob
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Flats, cones & early tabs. Ohio cans, ultra clean cans & shine. East coast cans. Rare rust. And, whatever else catches my eye.
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Flats, cones & early tabs. Ohio cans, ultra clean cans & shine. East coast cans. Rare rust. And, whatever else catches my eye.
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Re: Fan Tabs - USBC Vol. II
USBC II does not segregate the various PT or pull tabs, but groups them together. I've never seen any other documents or online source.
Best advice I can offer; in the front of the USBC II are pictures of various tops and canning companies, study those, and importantly, the more common cans in your collection (very slim chance they were re-lidded). Look for the style of lid, the seam construction, and different can logos.
What I always do with a can in question, check seam for (1) canning company logo (2) seam construction (ex. notched, soldered, soldered with notches, etc). From this I know the canning company, and an approximate time period based on seam construction. Second, look at the top lid, and determine if this style was unique to one canning company, or maybe a style used by more than one. Third, determine if the lid is realistic for the seam style and canning company for the can in question.
I think a lot of this is picked up from experience, the genuine interest, and not wanting to be ripped off on high dollar re-lids.
JAL
Best advice I can offer; in the front of the USBC II are pictures of various tops and canning companies, study those, and importantly, the more common cans in your collection (very slim chance they were re-lidded). Look for the style of lid, the seam construction, and different can logos.
What I always do with a can in question, check seam for (1) canning company logo (2) seam construction (ex. notched, soldered, soldered with notches, etc). From this I know the canning company, and an approximate time period based on seam construction. Second, look at the top lid, and determine if this style was unique to one canning company, or maybe a style used by more than one. Third, determine if the lid is realistic for the seam style and canning company for the can in question.
I think a lot of this is picked up from experience, the genuine interest, and not wanting to be ripped off on high dollar re-lids.
JAL
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Re: Fan Tabs - USBC Vol. II
I have found that book cans that have both a Z and T listed for a label often have versions in the early tab types. An early pull tab like the slot or U tab should probably not be paired with a bottom that is the gray tin-free steel. This, plus the body styles JAL mentions, is still not a foolproof way to avoid a re-lidded can but increases your odds.
Jeff Dankert, Peru, IL
12 oz Midwest beer cans (Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Nebraska, Missouri)
12 oz Midwest beer cans (Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Nebraska, Missouri)