Advice on avoiding humidity spotting

#1

I've got a Soul ML here that is bottom opened which suggests it went straight into a collection, or at least was purchased by a collector.
BUT - it's got a fair amount of humidity spotting on it.

I live in Southern California so I'm wondering,,,
1. Cars don't rust here. Can any Cali guys confirm that the humidity spotting will be minimal as well (the Soul came from the east coast)?
2. Is there something that can be done to slow or stop the process other than can keepers all around?
3. Are 60-70s metallic cans more likely to humidity spot than the older flats? (My observation says yes)

I've got some favorite metallic cans (Ace from IA, 49er, Hulls, etc..) that I really want to be the same in 20 years as they are now on the shelf.

#2

WD-40. Seriously.

There are a few ways you could go about it, probably the least invasive of which would be putting a little on a soft cloth and rubbing it gently into the can's surface. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe it down with a dry cloth. If the aroma is a concern, wait a day and wash it by hand with warm water and dishsoap. Don't work it over like there's no tomorrow, you just want to emulsify any excess that's on the surface. If you do it right, the metal will be protected against future humidity spotting but the can will still feel ordinary.

This is very much a to-each-their-own strategy. You'll hear detractors talking about shelf rings, stink, and potential damage to the can, and to those issues I'd say:

(1) Don't use so much oil,
(2) Refer to dishsoap technique outlined above, and
(3) Nonsense.

As pointed out in prior threads on this topic, "WD" stands for "water displacement." You want to stop spotting in its tracks and prevent it from happening in the future? Look no further.

#3

Clean the can, dry it thoroughly, use a good quality wax and then keep your hands off of them. The oils in/on your hands comes off on the cans, especially with metallic paints and over time will create humidity spots. Keep the cans in a dry climate controlled environment with no fish tanks (especially salt water) or bathrooms with steamy showers in the vicinity. When you must handle the cans, only touch the rims. Everyone will have their opinion on this subject, this is mine.

#4

Wheaton wrote:WD-40. Seriously.

What he said.

Good advice and even better results. The stuff is essentially made for the purpose.

#5

I use WD40 on my Cans and I have no problems at all.It makes the Colors POP!!!After a few months I apply another Coat and there good for a good long time.

#6

Thanks! I've got some work to do now.

#7

Be rediculously careful with cleaning Monarch cans if you happen to have or purchase any. They used a weak paint or ink that will soften and wash off with simply warm water.
Other than this group I agree with what is written above.

#8

Thanks Dewild. You're talking about Monarch brand from Chicago and not cans from Monarch Brewing in Los Angeles, right?

#9

sgramling wrote:Thanks Dewild. You're talking about Monarch brand from Chicago and not cans from Monarch Brewing in Los Angeles, right?

He's referring to Monarch Los Angeles. Palomar, Coronado, Brownie, Chief, et. al.

Continental and American both used topcoats on their cans to protect the inks. Some were notoriously thick and bulletproof, others not so much, but both seemed to hold up pretty well. National's topcoats were also effective. I'm going to go ahead and state that I suspect Crown's topcoats were light and not very durable. One of the tragedies referred to above was the washing out of a Chief can, particularly the reds, with only warm water. That is pretty adequate testament to the lack of a topcoat as the cured lithographic inks were known to be sort of dry and chalky without adequate protection.

The man speaks truth and when dealing with those very early CCS cans, I'd hesitate to clean them with anything unless you're absolutely certain there's a viable topcoat remaining. The flip side of that story is that I once had a wall-found Palomar that cleaned up quite well in mild, warm acid (just to remove a little bit of rust that had developed around a bare spot). To my recollection that was a four-color label (black, brown, red, white) and all colors remained as they were prior to cleaning. It also had a visible topcoat - it was duller than some others I've seen, but had enough of a "satiny" finish that I could tell it was at least intact.

#10

Thanks for the clarification Dave. I remember reading about that. I'd have cried if that happened to me.
I've got a Brownie that is SHE-LACKED to hell so there ain't nothin' I can do with that one and - and a Palomar that seems to have been protected by some similar method.

If I ever came across a Chief that needed some TLC - there's no chance I would touch it myself.

#11

What Crowntainer said.

In the Early 90s, I had a part time job catering for HTown's rich and famous. As such, we oftentimes had to wear white cloth gloves.

Fast forward to when I started collecting again. Hadn't worked catering in many years, but I had a pair of these gloves in my house. Whenever I dust, I wear these gloves when I handle my cans. Get a lot of strange looks from my friends and neighbors when I do this for them as entertainment

#12

As far as humidity on seemingly store bought and bottom opened metallic zips and tabs, there is the possibility that that Soul was kept full for a number of years (in a collection or as a curiosity by a non collector, etc). There are many examples of this with cans such as red Altes zip tops. There must have been a batch of these found at one time as for awhile you could pick up a full example at a Michigan show. Some had varying degrees of humidity. There is also the indoor red Altes pint zip top USBC II 138/09 which is the exact same can pictured in the Class Book (118/02). That particular example was purchased when it was a "current" on the market at a liquor store in the early 60s in downtown Detroit and saved by the collector. The photo for the Class Book was in the early 80s. The same can was photographed again in the early 90s and by that time it had tarnished and degraded to the can that is pictured in the USBC II. That's what a fish tank in a basement can do to an indoor can.

#13

Does WD work on cans that are not shiny/glossy such as some of the crowntainers that have a flatter finish? Also, should you put any WD on the inside of the can too?