Cleaning OD cans........... Any experience?

[Sea Monkey]

Has anyone tried cleaning OD cans? Do they hold up well? There doesn't seem like there would be anything to fade. Any tips to not screw then up? Do these look like they will clean? The guy said they haven't been cleaned yet. Any advice would be appreciated...........

[iggyks]

I cleaned a mystery cone which turned out to be an OD Duquesne... in genral i thought it did clean up better than the usual can around here esp. considering it was 40s, but at the end i lost a little of the logo My only thought is to pick the one you care least about and clean it first, don't do all four at once. For cans I know or suspect are something i want to be careful with, I have a clear-sided hard plastic container with lid where I can monitor it closely instead of pulling it out to check it every fifteen minutes or whatever.

[Paul Letostak]

Scott, I am a citric acid guy. That being said use oxalic, and you want a weak cool mixture. Clear container, 1 at a time. Don't get impatient if it takes a while, like a day.

Paul

[Leon]

I bought some uncleaned OD's (a 6 pak) very similar to yours condition but actually worse. Was convinced to pay the BIG bucks with promise they would clean up nice, Like playing Russian Roulette I took a chance & unfortunately they did not clean up much at all & I don't think I could evan get half of what I paid for them even after I cleaned them. Lesson learned. Don't fall for it. LEON.

[plogan42]

Scott,

What Paul has written is 100% correct.

I tend to use the 32oz clear plastic containers (originally came w. cashew nuts in it, minus label) with plastic screw-on lid for cleaning cans that are more rare.

Use room temperature water, and about 1/4 cup of acid for something that size. Let the acid fully dissolve before inserting can.

When you use a small container, you have to change the water as the dissolved iron will saturate the available water, and this occurs when it starts looking like "a darker shade of Gatorade". At that point, the old solution needs to be dumped, and new, fresh water / acid added. Otherwise, the reaction stops and continued exposure doesn't do any good. I tend to do this at the 12-16 hr. mark.

Another trick I do is to periodically scrub the can lightly with a toothbrush while it's in solution. About every 4-6 hrs. This cuts down the layers of rust, progressively, exposing each layer to the solution, vs. forcing the acid solution work thru the oxide film before it makes contact w. fresh rust.

After the soak is complete, clean the can (toothbrush and soap), and ALWAYS then neutralize the can w. a solution of baking soda and room temp. water. About 1/4 cup of baking soda and 32oz water, soaked for about 10 min. should do the trick. On a heavily rusted can, one of thoese that's still 'a bit ferrous' (in spots) after an oxalic bath, this neutralizes the absorbed acid in those rusted spots. Otherwise, the acid will continue to eat away the can as it sits on the shelf. Dry can w. small desktop fan for about 24 hrs. afterward.

Good luck.

Pat

[Jim Romine]

My experience cleaning Schaeffer and Rheingold ODs says much the same - no high temps, just warm water. Frequent scrubbing, with minimal force. The black paint tended to flake a bit, but the OD was bulletproof. Hurry up, not much time before the show!